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Writer's pictureKath Rozycka

Bike Touring the Murray River - Kuitpo Forest to Goolwa

31 Dec 2023



I woke up alone in a forest for the first time in my life this morning. It was still dark and I hadn't had much sleep, but I knew if I tried to sleep more I would probably just end up being groggy for the rest of the day. So I started packing up already to get riding early.


A highway with tall grass and purple flowers growing alongside it, and hills in the background
Leaving Kuitpo Forest/the Adelaide Hills

Today was a nice and cruisy 40km ride to Goolwa, half downhill and half flat. Once I stopped at the noticeboard in town I saw there was quite a lot to see here so I decided to spend the rest of the day just checking out this town instead of riding further. It was new years eve so wasn't sure if I'd find a place to stay, but there was room at the Hindmarsh Island Caravan park, which is one of the islands in the mouth of the murray. You can't book for only one night over the phone, they have a 3 night minimum, but if you show up in person and they have spots it seems they can book you in for one night.


A cottage built in the 1850s with tan-coloured bricks and a bright blue front door.
Little Scotland building

For the rest of the day, I had a look at the Little Scotland buildings in Goolwa which are just really cute historical buildings, checked out the two small art galleries, the Goolwa railway, the market, and rode to the Murray Mouth lookout. I got yelled at by car passengers twice in Goolwa which caught me a bit off guard, since I've only had that happen to me in Melbourne so far.


A smiling selfie in front of the Murray mouth, with sandy banks. I am wearing sunglasses, a cycling jersey, and a hi vis backpack.
The mouth of the Murray

I was too tired to stay up for the new year, but everyone else's celebrations kept me awake anyway, so another night of little sleep. My bikepacking trips ARE my New Years celebrations!

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